Taxi!

Having settled in at Baan Boo Loo overnight and devouring the first of many giant scrumptious breakfasts, it was time to grab the map of the old city of Chiang Mai and start walking. I’m one of those who like following the map but my partner finds it tedious, so I just tried to keep track of where we going as she went about spontaneously. After all, you can never be more than 1 km away as the old city has a surrounding wall and moat. Below is one of the gates . If you have a magnifying glass you can see a Tuk-Tuk and a motorcycle, two of the most common ways to get around in Chiang Mai.

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There are also big red taxis like troop carriers and cars which operate as taxis, just as you would have in Australia. It’s a case of using whichever one is most appropriate. The streets are busy and there are intersecting lanes and lanes off lanes. At home I wouldn’t walk down some of these but here I never felt in danger. If the main road is called Warraroot then the lanes are Soi Warraroot 1 etc.  The thing is, these lanes are very narrow and the drivers here are fearless and skillful in negotiating traffic, commonly coming head on until they work around each other. I didn’t see a hint of road rage. The population is mainly Buddjist. Orn gave me a succinct summary of what this means; “Don’t disturb yourself and don’t disturb others.” They seem to live by it.

The Thai people love their King, not the elected government, but the Royal family whose images are displayed as giant posters all around. Such is the respect for them that the poster images show a younger King and Queen although they are becoming elderly. The King is best known for popularising the notions of environmental awareness, sustainability and self-sufficiency forty years ago which makes him a visionary trend-setter really.

Everywhere you look,  you can see the clash of the old and new. The commercial influence is all pervasive.

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Just as it is in Australia, the tearing down of traditional houses in favour of modern buildings is happening apace and is controversial in some quarters. Concrete is the new black. I noticed in the week we were there, a building being made ready to sell motorcycles. The construction was still finishing as the shops were being fitted out. You wouldn’t see that in Australia. Another thing you wouldn’t see is bamboo scaffolding. It’s quite strong and flexible but is only good for six months after it is cut. I hope there’s some good quality control on that! Here’s what it looks like.

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Here you can see a typical street scape with the open red taxis.

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Crossing the road takes a little getting used to. If you waited for a clearing you’d wait forever. It’s a matter of assertiveness and judgement. All forms of vehicles flow around each other. It’s almost mesmerising. Somehow the locals manage not to have accidents. The only incident I saw was some fellow coming off his moped. He just looked a bit embarrassed and just got back on. There aren’t many pedestrian crossings, but it’s a bit different: it’s not called a Zebra crossing because of the black and white stripes; at a zebra crossing run like a zebra! I found it quite cute that the traffic lights have a smaller set below so the Tuk-Tuk drivers can see them.

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I would hate to be a phone technician here. This post is one of the neater ones!

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The Tuk-Tuk drivers are assertive but not pushy. Anytime they see a tourist walking they offer their services. They don’t speak English very much, but quoting the name of the nearest temple e.g. Wat Phra Singh gets you close and pointing works from there.   Home to Baan Boo Loo.

Here, kitty, kitty!

 

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This photo above is of one of the two largest tigers we met at Tiger Kingdom. The handler took this shot because the guests are not to get this close to the face. In fact just after this shot, a playful swipe sent the camera flying but to no ill effect. Point taken though. This fellow is 20 months old and about 4 foot long. Its paws are as big as our hands. We were allowed to lie against its rump, play with its tail and rub its belly, which they seem to like a lot.   Amazing opportunity. There were four large cats in this enclosure. The handlers were playing with them just like little pussy cats… which of course they’re not. A young girl was hastily chastised by staff for sticking her hands through the fence from outside despite clear signage to the contrary.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

At Tiger Kingdom you can get in touch with tigers of all sizes. You can literally buy tickets for personal encounters with the smallest, small, medium and largest tigers… take your pick. The smallest were about the size of pet cats. We lay down with them and had a good pat and cuddle. I don’t know where else you’d get to actually touch a tiger… and all this for $30 each!

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I was pleased to see the conditions for the animals were clean and spacious and that the handlers did not mistreat the tigers.

 

 

 

 

 

The elephant in the room

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About an hour an a half north of Chiang Mai, into the mountains, is the Elephant Nature Park, a different sort of elephant attraction because the focus is on the well being of the animals.   These are not wild elephants but a lucky handful of those who were rescued from cruel servitude, injured or just neglected and unwanted after the logging trade was finally wound down, just before every last teak tree was removed from the face of Thailand… just in time I hope.

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The park is set in beautiful mountain country, similar to rainforest, with a swift flowing mountain river running through. There is accommodation for over night stays and it’s possible to volunteer here. There’s plenty to do… and plenty of “do”. The poo patrol is kept busy.  We fed the elephants pumpkins, pineapple and bananas, the latter being the gold currency it seems. They’re very keen on bananas. You can walk with the elephants around the park and wash them in the river, which is great fun. They then have a good scratch and cover themselves in mud which seems counter-productive but then the sun is quite hot here.

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The ages range from 60+ to the newest who was only a month old when we saw him. There is no breeding program here, so the birth was a surprise. The mother elephant had been rescued from Burma after having stepped on a land mine (unfortunately common). Half of one of her massive feet had been blown sideways, but soon after arriving in the park, she gave birth. With extensive and on-going veterinary care she is recovering well enough on that foot but of course will never be quite the same again. Good thing she’s in proper care. Some elephants are forced to work the streets of Bangkok, terrified and at risk of being killed by traffic. Please do not give money to people using elephants in this way.

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Each elephant in the park has a fellow who accompanies it everywhere all day, a mahout in the old terminology, but the elephants are not beaten here. We saw a video about how wild elephants are tortured to “break them in” for work. Traditionally, they were locked in a crush, restrained and prodded with sharp spikes for days without and water. I didn’t know the full extent of this before. Some of the elephants here have broken bones from work injuries. Another was deliberately blinded in both eyes to force obedience. This was after she had given birth while working on a mountain-side, the newborn tumbling down the slope away from her, still in its sack where it would have perished. She was too distressed to obey commands so blinding her was their response. What a horrible story. Here in the park she has no further problems, thanks to having been adopted by another elephant who is her “seeing eye elephant” so to speak. They are never far away from each other. In fact here they are below..

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If you wish to see elephants in Thailand please do go to Elephant Nature Park because the money you spend there goes  to  the  care, feeding and veterinary costs for these magnificent animals. There are also about 300 dogs in the park, rescued from the streets of Bangkok during the 2012 floods.

http://www.elephantnaturepark.org

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Snakeman, he so crazy!

For about $30 a taxi driver in Chiang Mai will drive you around all day, however far you like, waiting for you to go to whatever shows or shopping you wish. As we entered the King Cobra snake show, we were keenly greeted by staff, “C’mon lady-boys, come and see snake show!”  OK then. The warm up was the younger snake handlers with various smaller local snakes. At one point a fire-cracker was let off as a short length of rope was tossed into the audience at the feet of a Japanese lady who was instantly screaming.

Then out came the King Cobras. The scale is hard to see in the photo but they are as thick as my forearm. We were assured that no one within lifesaving driving distance had any ant-venom and anyone bitten would die within 30 minutes. We assumed they’d been milked of venom before the show.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

So the Snake Man worked with two of these simultaneously, repeatedly leaning over to kiss one. The compere worked a PA system with the disco music volume being lowered for comments such as, “Snake Man, he so crazy,” and “Snake man want to kiss you, Watch out Snake man.” After suitable photo opportunities, the laughing Snake Man jostled the still rearing cobra in front of us, about a foot away, then milked it, showing that there was actually a large amount of venom there.

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It’s a hard way to earn a living. The audience tossed some money into the ring. We had the usual nature park photo of us with a medium sized python around our shoulders, then it was off to Tiger Kingdom!

Hot massage!

We decided to travel to Thailand because we like Thai food and were intrigued by the little we knew about the place, and most of all because we wanted to see the great work being done at Elephant Nature Park. However we did know of the reputation of the Thai sex industry, so we initially viewed with suspicion the invitations on every street to have a massage. Our hostess Orn, at Baan Boo Loo. assured us that the sex trade was mainly in Bangkok and not in the old city of Chiang Mai. She arranged for us to go to a very nice and reputable establishment for Thai massage. The taxi to Fah Lanna Spa was complimentary and  punctual, so we hurried downstairs, but without our glasses, as we discovered reading the massage menu. Squinting, we chose one hour of this (pointing) followed by one hour of that (pointing). After a very relaxing cup of herbal tea, we were ushered down a walkway bordered by fish ponds to a very private area where we donned the largest size they had in modesty garments and lay down as instructed. Hot rocks were applied to us… VERY hot rocks. At least we were only going to be having this phase for… um… one whole hour. I tuned out after a while and it became better. There followed a pummeling which seemed disproportional in strength to the stature of the elegant Thai ladies who were administering this therapy. Politely they asked us if we were OK. Politely we answered that we were. After all this is what we had requested. The massage although set at the softest of the available choices, was thoroughly chiropractic. At the end of two hours I stood up feeling that I must be two inches taller. Surely this was akin to a benevolent elephant stomping. We made our way back to the reception area where we had more very lovely herbal tea. It really was nice, but I’ve no idea what it was; I almost suspect there was something pain-killing in it, as we vowed to return for more before we returned to Australia… but next time, with our glasses.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Massage (of the entirely appropriate kind) is very cheap in many places along the roads and we had  massages at various places. Some are little caravans or demountables but one place was an art deco building which may one have been a bank turned into a mix of a polite granny’s lounge and a clean swimming pool change room. We had neck and leg massage there for an our for about $4.50 Australian. Just the thing if you’ve been walking around all day. From the outside of the building though it looked like nothing in particular.

Next time at Fah Lanna Spa we had a facial and a massage more like what a sports therapy person would deliver back home. We had this in a large open room which was very relaxing and this I would recommend to anyone.

http://www.fahlanna.com

 

I’m being crushed by a Boeing constrictor.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAHow exciting: my partner and I finally going overseas together. Not really looking forward to the long flight but it has to be done. I wonder who will sit in the aisle seat. I must be getting older. Once upon a time I would hope to get a window, now I realise that strategically, the person in the aisle seat is standing (sitting actually) between me and the loo.

Oh, a body builder, oh joy.

Has anyone else noticed that men take for granted that they will get the sole use of the arm rest for the entire journey? I don’t know how they decide what to so when the person beside then is also male.  Anyway, this fellow went one better: taking the small pillow provided (but not for this purpose) and putting it over the crook of my arm and onto my breast, he then plonked his over sized arm there. I felt so useful and fulfilled. I don’t know why I didn’t say anything, perhaps I was in shock.

So apart from eating and drinking it was going to be a long trip. Even eating was challenging. Try this: move your left hand in front of you and to the right and your right hand over to the left so that your elbows are together. Now try to reach out and do anything with your hands without moving your hands more than a foot in front of you. Well not quite that bad, but almost. The drinks steward stopped coming past us as a response to the bulk-man demanding as much free alcohol as possible. Vodka in one hand and rum in the other.  Classy. I managed one drink before our steroid man fell into a snoring coma.

I was saved by the inflight selection of music which was extensive. As much as I basically passed out for a couple of hours, when we arrived at Bangkok, I was fairly cabbaged. As we landed, I could see this was the biggest airport I’ve ever seen (which means nothing as I had previously only ever travelled within Australia and to the north island of new Zealand). Our luggage was checked straight through to Chiang Mai so we just had to find the connecting flight. We had an hour and a half, so that would be easy.

As we left the plane, we had no idea which way to go but were swept along by the flow of people who, hopefully, did. As we passed through the gate, we had stickers attached to our chests so staff could locate lost tourists, no doubt. After following the bright yellow signs to domestic connecting flights, for about 20 minutes, we started to wonder just how far we’d have to walk. The next the sign advised another 1000 metres! Good thing we weren’t dragging our luggage with us. There were so many flights through the airport that we couldn’t see ours displayed on the flashing signs which  alternated between Thai and English. When we ran out of signs, we asked someone who pointed and happily found our connection.

Our body builder went off to join his connecting flight to Phuket and then to yet more alcohol, no doubt.

Good thing our bags did arrive safely with us in Chiang Mai. We were to stay in Baan Boo Loo guest-house in the old city of Chiang Mai and were to be met there. “Baan Boo Loo” was written on a piece of cardboard held by a smiling man who spoke no English, so we followed him to our means of travel, a Tuk-Tuk or motorcycle with passenger compartment attached. He politely ignored my inelegant attempts to get in the back, requiring a gynecological examination like posture. The city flashed past, albeit at a relatively sedate pace as the two-stroke engine farted out kerosene fumes into the cool refreshing night air. This was fast enough as our  luggage was swaying in the open-air compartment as we traversed the roads then sideroads then alleys like footpaths and then to our guest house where Orn waited to show us mercifully to our rooms and bed. Ah: horizontal… snore!

http://www.baanbooloo.com